PASSALACQUA

Text by Mariangela Rossi

Every great story has a before and after, and in the case of Passalacqua, both are linked by a shared podium of excellence. Once a haven for luminaries spanning music, art, and politics—Napoleon, Winston Churchill, and composer Vincenzo Bellini, who lived here while crafting some of his most famous operas—this 18th-century villa on the shores of Lake Como has been transformed into an intimate and sophisticated hotel. Its rebirth is credited to the De Santis family, famed for their stewardship of the Grand Hotel Tremezzo, who restored the villa to its former glory.

The villa’s brilliance was recognized in 2023, when Passalacqua was crowned number one by the World’s 50 Best Hotels, and “Best Hotel in Europe” in 2024. The accolade celebrates what has become a rare gem: “A sublime retreat that feels like a private home, maximizing its magical lakeside position.” With just 24 individually designed suites, Passalacqua embodies the essence of a boutique hotel: personalized service, singular character, and an authenticity steeped in local heritage.

“This recognition is especially meaningful for an independent hotel,” says Valentina De Santis, the visionary owner behind Passalacqua’s success. “Luxury today is authenticity. It’s about embracing your roots and sharing the essence of Italian culture with the world. Passalacqua is a family story built on love — a realized dream. And we’ll keep dreaming.”

An Expanded Spa: A Sanctuary of Elegance

In 2024, the spa was expanded, offering an entrance through the villa’s historic stables. The design is lush and evocative: walls feature replicas of the exotic botanical frescoes from architect Piero Portaluppi’s Milan home, while the relaxation area boasts vaulted ceilings and Bonacina armchairs. Treatment rooms glow under chandeliers by artist Yahya, whose intricate lighting creates mesmerizing patterns.

A subterranean network of tunnels now houses a serene thermal area and an indoor pool that feels like a glasshouse overlooking the gardens. Treatments follow a “Seed to Skin” ethos, combining natural ingredients with results-driven therapies. One standout is the Beautiful Balance Ritual, which includes a matcha soap cleanse, a toning salt scrub, a steam bath, a sauna Aufguss session with a therapist, and a hydrating candle massage with coconut oil.

Guests can unwind further with yoga classes, floral design workshops, wine tastings, or mixology lessons with the hotel’s bartender. For the festive season, Passalacqua remains open until January 2025, offering special holiday experiences.

A Noble Dinner

Dining at Passalacqua is a celebration of culinary artistry, thanks to the arrival of Michelin-starred chef Viviana Varese. Her menu draws inspiration from the aristocratic traditions of the lake, where families once brought their private chefs to their summer villas. The tasting menu, aptly named after Viviana, reimagines family recipes with finesse—think comforting pasta e patate elevated to fine dining. Meals are served on tables dressed with exquisite porcelain and silverware, framed by grand lake views through the villa’s towering windows.

A Botanical Masterpiece

The villa’s sprawling gardens are the handiwork of Emilio Trabella, the celebrated Italian botanist and landscape designer once dubbed “the plant whisperer” by architect Renzo Piano. Originally designed by Carlo Felice Soave in the 18th century, the gardens merge historic charm with contemporary functionality. A 20-meter pool, styled like a classical fountain and clad in local serpentine stone, anchors the outdoor space, complemented by a winter garden lounge created in collaboration with La DoubleJ. Bright floral prints and bold colors on cushions and umbrellas echo the whimsical palettes of designer Ken Scott, adding playful modernity to the grounds.

Crafted with Italian Excellence

Passalacqua’s commitment to craftsmanship is evident in every detail. Bathrooms are outfitted with hand-selected marble from Carrara and Verona, mirrors hand-decorated by the historic Barbini workshop, and bespoke toiletries scented with a signature Acqua di Como fragrance. In the suites, Venetian terrazzo floors, antique parquet, and curated pieces from family heirlooms or auction finds create a sense of timeless luxury. Fortuny, Rubelli, and Dedar fabrics adorn the interiors, while custom leather-and-fabric trunks by Bottega Conticelli cleverly conceal modern touches like televisions.

One unforgettable highlight is the villa’s Music Room, where a five-meter-tall chandelier illuminates the space where Bellini once composed Norma and La Sonnambula. The legendary composer would surely be awestruck by the villa’s revival, a place where history, artistry, and the enduring allure of Lake Como converge in a symphony of elegance.

At Passalacqua, the past isn’t just preserved—it’s elevated, creating a timeless retreat where every corner invites wonder, and every detail tells a story!

About the author
Originally from Genoa with Tuscan roots, she often escapes to the hills of Lucca, where an old elementary school has become her haven of greenery and silence. However, she has been living in Milan for over twenty years and has a soft spot for New York, where she spent a few months. A long-time journalist and contributor to HTSI (How to Spend It), AMICA and iO Donna, Mariangela Rossi is also the author of books focused on well-being, olfactory culture and style, including topics related to travel.