Mustang: a re-discovered destination

Located in the Himalayas, north of Nepal, Mustang encompases the Kali Gandaki River valley. It has its own language, its own religion (Tibetan Buddhism and pagan rituals) and its own traditions, unique to the place.

With high mountains and a harsh climate, the landscape is arid but spectacular. And with the capital Lo Manthang lying 3,800 meters above sea level, getting there is still a challenge; in fact, until recently it was downright impossible. It was isolated until 2012 when the road connecting China to the plains of Nepal was completed, raising many doubts about the potential impact it would have on the culture and traditions of the small kingdom. Yet contrary to expectations, Mustang has managed to retain its allure as something of a forbidden land in spite of the odd defection to the United States or the wealthy countries of the Middle East in search of new opportunities. Once they have left, these people rarely return, but that is the story of humanity.

Mustang’s uniqueness is due to its complex living conditions in the context of a  grandiose and spiritual environment. The most authentic expression of Tibetan Buddhism has been preserved here, along with an intimate and pioneering atmosphere. And although the pull towards a more modern lifestyle is strong, the country remains rooted in its traditions and cultural heritage.

Caves dug into the rock testify to the presence of man since 2,800 BC, while Buddhism spread from Tibet – of which Mustang was  a part until 1440 – in the 7th century. In 1790 it was integrated into the Kingdom of Nepal. After the Chinese occupation of Tibet in 1960, China and Nepal signed an agreement that closed the border between Tibet and Mustang. Tibetan fighters took refuge in Mustang, which remained isolated until 1992, when the government opened it up to international travellers. Until 2008, when Nepal declared itself an independent republic, Upper Mustang was presided over by one of the last Himalayan kings, Jigme Dorje Palbar Bista, who died in 2016.

Sensing the tourist potential of this small, uncontaminated and largely forgotten kingdom, the Sherpa family (owners of the Mountain Lodges of Nepal group), bought a property in 2014. The project was straightforward: to renovate and add it to the company’s portfolio of 15 tented camps and lodges, creating a new stop on the trekking circuit between Everest and Annapurna. But as soon as work began, it became clear that this would become a destination in itself. The architect Bill Bensley, a fundamentalist in sustainable architecture, was chosen to design the hotel. The collaboration worked so well that his Shinta Mani brand was also chosen to manage it. Shinta Mani opened in August 2023, effectively opening Mustang to the world.

The minimum stay is five nights, and the rate includes all services, from full board to activities, from guided treks to lessons in preparing tea according to local traditions.

A journey to Mustang offers an opportunity to meet people from a different culture and to reflect on the delicate balance between tradition and modernization. And even if the country is currently on the luxury travel circuit thanks to the opening of the new five-star hotel, it is essential to look beyond the comforts of high-end hospitality and remember that this place remains a rare microcosm of ancient Tibetan Himalayan culture and as such must be protected. For 10 days in Mustang, you pay a tourist tax of 500 dollars, unless you are part of a humanitarian or research expedition.